Thursday, August 22, 2013

How to Make a BB Cream From Scratch

Right now BB Creams are the hottest trend in the cosmetics industry.  It seems like every couple of weeks there's a new one on the market, from high end cosmetics companies in Europe and Asia to over-the-counter drug store brands.  Everybody has a BB Cream in their line, now you can too!

BB (Blemish Balm or Beauty Balm) Creams originated in Germany, formulated by dermatologists.  The original idea was to create a vitamin and nutrient-packed moisturizer that would also give coverage to skin imperfections.  Over the years it has gradually morphed into an all-in-one type product, taking the place of a primer, moisturizer, foundation, concealer, and loose powder thus shortening the time it takes to get ready while maximizing the performance of one product.  A BB Cream is perfect for those who have normal to dry skin and want to eliminate redness and cover blemishes while limiting the heavy feel that foundations can have on the skin.  

Our BB Cream formula is light and airy, and made of totally natural vegetable waxes and oils and pigmented with natural iron oxides. It goes on like a lotion and blends in easily while providing medium coverage. We enrich it with Honeysuckle Extract which contains Chlorogenic acid, a natural flavonoid and powerful anti-oxidant that has anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, and detoxifying properties, making it especially beneficial for those with acne problems. It also contains our new Ultrafine Glacial Cosmetic Marine Clay, which has incredible detoxifying and cleansing properties while absorbing into the skin and depositing phytoplankton and countless minerals (read more about our Ultrafine Clay here).  

When making a liquid foundation or BB Cream it's very challenging to match natural skin tones.  In this formula we have tested many, many pigment blends and found one to be the best for medium skin tones, which can easily be modified by adding or removing some of the components. Because not everyone has a mineral makeup scale that can easily weigh out less than one gram increments we came up with a Pigment Blend that you can tailor to your specific skin type.  You will probably have some leftovers of the Pigment Blend, try adding it to our Mineral Makeup Powder Base for a mineral loose powder foundation! Our Medium Skin Pigment Blend consists of the following:

25 grams Water Soluble Titanium Dioxide
1 gram Red Iron Oxide
4 grams Yellow Iron Oxide
2 grams Ochre Iron Oxide
20 grams Arrowroot Powder
6 grams Ultrafine Clay

Tip: For cooler, fair skin tones add a few grams more Titanium Dioxide, Arrowroot, and Ultrafine Clay. For those with naturally red complexions, add a gram or two more Ultrafine Clay and Yellow Iron Oxide. For those with darker skin, try adding a gram or two of Brown Iron Oxide. If you want a dewy glowing finish try adding Peach or White Mica to the mix!

The base for our BB Cream is a thick moisturizer that will protect and hydrate the skin. It contains Evening Primrose oil, which calms inflammation and helps combat signs of aging, Glycerin, a powerful humectant, and Vitamin E to help heal scars and minimize the look of fine lines. Here is the formula to make 600 grams:

Part A:

8%                Polawax             48 grams
4%              Stearic Acid          24 grams
4%      Evening Primrose Oil      24 grams
1.5%              Glycerin                9 grams

Part B:

73.3%             Boiling Water         440 grams
Part C:
7%                 Pigment Blend             42 grams

Part D:

0.5%      Vitamin E D-Alpha Tocopherol       3 grams
0.5%                           Panthenol                   3grams
1 %                             Optiphen                   6 grams
0.2%                   Honeysuckle Extract          1 gram

Step 1: Weigh out all the pigments into a container, then mix them together until the colour is consistent and no clumps remain.  This is quite a time consuming process, we used a paper plate and a fork which worked well, otherwise we've heard using a sheet of freezer paper and cutting up the colourants with a  popsicle stick.

Step 2: Put the pigments to the side, it's time to start making the cream!  Start by weighing out Part A into a large bowl. While you're doing this you should have the water starting to boil in the kettle.  

Step 3: When the water is just off the boil weigh out 440 grams into a measuring cup, then pour it into Part A quickly and start whisking. Continue to whisk fairly vigorously for at least 5-10 minutes to ensure all solids have melted.  This is the most crucial part of making a lotion, if it is left for longer than a minute or two it could separate!  

Step 4: Continue to whisk the cream every minute or two until it starts to thicken and cool down. Once the cream has thickened substantially (think pudding) add in the pigment blend (Part C) and whisk well until no clumps remain.  

Step 5: Take the temperature of the cream, when it is below 45° Celsius add all the components of Part D and whisk well. You can add essential or fragrance oils at this point, a few drops at a time until the desired scent level is reached (try ones like our Skin Therapy blend - perfect for the face).

Step 6: Package into tottle bottles or any plastic bottle with a treatment pump. This cream is fairly thick so we recommend spooning it into a plastic bag, snipping off the corner and piping the lotion into the bottle like icing on a cake. 

And there you have it, your own trendy BB Cream, proving you don't have to pay ridiculous prices for quality cosmetics!

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Spotlight on Ultrafine Cosmetic Glacial Clay

This week we are doing a product spotlight on a brand new ingredient, our Ultrafine Cosmetic Glacial Marine Clay

What is the difference between glacial marine clay and regular clays? 

Glacial marine clay is a product of erosion caused by the movement and melting of glaciers. The eroded minerals and elements make their way into streams and rivers and eventually into the ocean. Over time these particles will form a deposit and become a very dense layer that is harvested in shallower water just off the coast of Vancouver Island. This hard-packed layer will not allow vegetation to grow within it or any crustaceans to survive in it, therefore no habitat is being affected by harvesting the clay. However, phytoplankton, which are minuscule free floating plant material, are found in abundance within the deposits and are hugely beneficial for the skin. The clay also contains large amounts of minerals and elements from the Pacific ocean that neutralize the skin. 

What are the skin benefits of using this Ultrafine Cosmetic Glacial Marine Clay?

This clay's net negative ion charge attracts most positively charged bacteria, contaminants, and toxins, thereby detoxifying, rejuvenating, revitalizing, and deep cleansing the skin to a new radiance. This means that when applying a mask or poultice to the face using the ultrafine clay it will deep cleanse the skin without using chemicals or surfactant-based products which may dry the skin out.  Another beneficial element to this clay is the micro size of its particles and its amazing absorptive ability. The particle size is so small it absorbs into the skin almost instantly and delivers the nutrients and minerals directly to the deep tissue of the dermis, while the osmotic power of the clay pulls moisture up from deep inner tissues to hydrate the surface of the skin. The clay is also excellent for aiding in softening the skin, smoothing out wrinkles and stimulating blood circulation in newly exposed skin cells, leaving the skin feeling refreshed, alive and glowing. It is frequently used for treating and preventing under-eye bags, and for detoxifying and exfoliating the skin naturally without the use of chemicals. It has a pH of 6.5 - 7.3 which means that it balances the skin and sebum, helping conditions such as acne and oily skin.

How can I use the Ultrafine Glacial Clay?

This Ultrafine Glacial Marine Clay would make an exceptional addition to masks, poultices, and body wraps as well as cosmetics such as BB creams, liquid and powder foundations, powder and stick deodorants, and mineral makeup.  When used in body care formulations the general usage rate is 5% - 10% but it can even be applied directly to the skin after moistening with a bit of water. 

Check back soon for a new, trendy tutorial on how to make your own BB Cream!

Print Friendly